shot through the heart: my Louis Vuitton F/W 2012 Menswear picks

these jabot pins shaped like arrows with feathers painted to replicate Gaston Vuitton's personal monogram are an instant hit.

i MUST have one. oh, and this necktie too:

im happy to see the Karakoram blanket showing up once again

the bomber in ochre is particularly appealing. more so if it is reversible

and i am very intrigued by this new Damier interpretation. the nautical feel of the superimposed rope grid reminds me of the Ouvea pattern from Spring 2006.

the bags looks prohibitively expensive, but the cashmere rug looks doable.

Kim Jones' successful transition as LV menswear director secures his spot as among the ones to look forward to every season.

Louis Vuitton S/S 2012: my picks

here are my top picks from the recently concluded presentation in Paris:

im sure everyone instantly fell in love with this varsity jacket emblazoned with Gaston Vuitton’s geometric V motif.

i also like this quilted roll-up jacket with the built-in straps and carry handle: a clever amalgamation of travel and fashion

from a line up of very fine & covetable bags and luggage, this binocular case in Nomade leather is the one i want.

i’ve got to get me a pair of these clever snap-on/flat-pack sandals:

but the one thing that are now burned in my mind and retinas are these wraps in maxi Damier and subtle LV Monogram plaid patterns.


a reference to Mr Jones’ childhood spent in East Africa, these vibrantly incandescent scarves are inspired by traditional Masai blankets

(SOURCE)

after five fine years under the creative helm of Paul Helbers who greatly influenced what we now come to know as the "Vuitton Man", the appointment of Kim Jones as director of their menswear division was initially seen as an unlikely – but now proven to be inspired – move by Louis Vuitton. the transition wasn’t drastic, travel has always been the strong recurring theme of the brand, and Mr Jones surely stepped up and delivered a collection so finely attuned to LV’s DNA.

the future looks mighty bright.

Louis Vuitton Men’s Fall/Winter 2011-12: the bags

 

Paul Helbers is at it again; combining totally disparate subjects into one seemingly cohesive thought. the Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2011-2012 menswear collection is said to be inspired by Amish austerity and the mind-fuckingly surreal films of David Lynch. OK…. @_@ though i do love a number of looks from the show, i’ll leave that aspect to my fellow bloggers to pull apart and analyze. im only here to oogle the leathergoods.

though to some gents of a certain age this never really went away, for the rest of us its seems that the time of men’s wrist clutch is nigh. the show featured a number of these in various materials:

im actually considering the one on the top right in what looks like Nomade leather or even the one in Monogram canvas. they are just the right size to contain my most basic daily needs. i like that they used the full-sized latches normally used on their trunks for these.

still afraid of the little clutch? there are some portfolios on offer too:

though smart & even more useful since these could fit that indispensable iPad or MBA, i wish these had handles or a wrist loop too. portfolios invariably end up sandwiched between one’s knees in order to have both hands free. not a good look. nor a secure one either.

and for someone who is a little more adventurous, how about a tiny belt pouch?

first proposed during the Spring/Summer 2010 presentation, i think it might take a couple more seasons of coaxing for men to latch on. after trying on the Taiga Pochette Ridge last year, i still have my reservations about belt packs. 

from a company known for travel luggages, there will always be some on offer too. slated for release by the third quarter of this year, Louis Vuitton is introducing a brand new men’s bags & accessory line called Damier Infini:

 

this collection of fine calfskin leather goods embossed with the company’s Damier pattern (only the second time since Damier Glacé from Spring/Summer 2001) made its debut tonight:

a most promising collection, in that they could introduce new colours from time to time. it could possibly be like the men’s counterpart to the Monogram Empreinte collection.

i really love that gorgeous tomato red accent colour seen throughout the show. it is the perfect counter to the preponderance of International Klein Blue seen in a lot of the Milan shows last week. i would really love a Damier Infini compact wallet in this colour:

after years of lugging messengers, large shoppers and duffles, im ready for a downsize. bring on the clutches!

photos: www.gq.com

Digital Bohemian: Louis Vuitton Spring-Summer 2011

 

"The idea was a digital bohemian, someone who travels in his mind and takes free imaginary trips when he wishes." 

- Paul Helbers, Louis Vuitton men’s studio director.

 

another very promising and thoroughly exciting season to look forward to for this particular LV fan. never one to follow trends or a particular scene, Paul Helbers has done another one of his signature totally-disparate-but-it-somehow-works references for Spring 2011. this season it is a heady mix of high-tech sportswear, militaria and Scandinavian knits all tied together with a heavy mix of the oriental by way of Chinese zodiac and tribal tattoos by master tattoo artist Scott Campbell. as for the bags, there are three distinct "lines" and a couple pieces of what could be considered the "Les Extraordinaires" for men.

first up, is what appears to be a new (semi?) permanent collection – based on the number of bags that were shown. i can’t quite pinpoint what sort of material these bags are, but im thinking some sort of rubberized linen or maybe natural coated canvas faintly printed with the LV monogram pattern. it comes in two colours: khaki and beige; with coordinating tri-colour leather handles and trims in khaki, olive and brown:

another collection is a brand new interpretation of their classic Damier pattern done in nylon à la Prada tessuto in graphite, sage green and sky blue. i really like these very sporty-casual collection of bags. and im particulary attracted to the green Damier with the complementing chocolate brown leather trims.

it looks like Bequia leather is making another comeback in 2011, but in a more softer and buffed treatment:

the odd one out: could this be a new Waterproof Keepall? but this time, they have used a Damier patterned translucent vinyl material reminiscent to Monogram Ambre and Epi Plage from past Cruise collections.

now to what i consider the men’s Les Extraordinaires:

Marc Jacobs’ acclaimed NYC tattoo artist Scott Campbell has been asked to design a new pattern for the runway leathergoods and RTW based on oriental iconography and tribal paterns incorporating the LV monogram. these were also applied on the models temporary tattoos. hmmm… i wonder if these will also be commercialized like Chanel did this season.

i have a thing for scarves and these surely got my attention:

i particulary want the cashmere looking one on the left.

i have been poring over all the runway photos provided by GQ all afternoon trying to decide which ones i like and which ones i truly wish to have. so without further ado, here are my top 3:



this tattooed Damier Graphite Speedy-Keepall showcases a fiery Chinese unicorn to great effect. i just hope this won’t leave a huge burned out hole in my wallet >.<
 


i love LV’s archival graphics and the drab vintagey material that i can’t comprehend just got to me.

but of all the bags on show, i think this is the one i can see myself getting the most use out of. the shape to me is practical with very manageable proportions, and the handles seem long enough to allow shoulder carry option. the bag is juuuuuust right. though sky blue is ok, i think i prefer it in graphite but green could be nice too.

it would nice to have all three of my choices make it to commercial production. im just keeping my fingers crossed my dwindling bank balance won’t suffer too much.

the six-month long anticipation commences in 3….. 2…..

Louis Vuitton x Christian Schoeler Bag upclose

Tommy Ton of Jak & Jil just posted some amazing close up photos of the bags and shoes from the recent Louis Vuitton F/W 2010 Menswear show. the ones i focused on are of the LV x Christian Schoeler painted bag that’s currently #1 on my wish/dream list:

on Mr Ton’s photos it appears that the bag is actually painted leather as opposed to raw canvas as i originally thought. it looks like the pricier Nomade leather even.

*GULP*

it changes everything. not because i don’t like how it looks up close – in fact i love the rustic and hand-made nature of the bag even more – but on how it affects its chances of making it to the shop floor come Fall.

firstly, all-leather bags are naturally priced higher than fabric. and because its an artist collaboration, im thinking it will definitely to go way past my current ceiling price.

secondly, the nature of how the paint is applied seems very delicate and impermanent (its flaking!). meaning, these could possibly be one-offs created purely for the fashion show and not for general consumption. unless LV plans to develop some other method of reproducing Christian Schoeler’s artwork into something that can be sold in multiples.

i wouldn’t mind if they even decide to print it on vinyl. as long as it doesn’t affect the artist’s original vision and it’s priced within good reason.

….. OR maybe i got it totally wrong. could it just be a very clever and convincing trompe l’oeil photographic print on canvas? i sure hope so.

the scheming and the obsessing will have to be curbed a little until i get more information/confirmation about this particular bag.

im remaining optimistic and keeping my fingers crossed for now.

the waiting game continues….

pics: GQ, Jak&Jil

LV fall/winter 2010 menswear review

Louis Vuitton goes tyrolean.

for their Fall/Winter 2010 collection, LV Menswear director Paul Helbers looked towards Vienna during the 1900′s and that of today. as with their past collections since Mr Helbers took the lead, this rather understated collection was a melding of tradition and technological innovation. heavy winter tweeds meet lightweight & sporty nylon. luxurious silk velvet and cashmere mix with man made microfibres.

some would think the clothes are a snooze, but the luxury house is not about directional cutting-edge men’s fashion. updated classics and wardrobe mainstays have always been their forte.

we all know the foci for this presentation are the leathergoods.

come late August/early September we shall expect a collection of oversized mocha-coloured leather bags.

LV’s unique, natually oxidised Nomade leather made its first runway appearance since it debuted on the Spring 2004 show:

a couple of Monogram Macassar pieces also made an appearance:

there’s also a collection of what seems to be rubberized cotton – the same material used on traditional rain coats:

but among this parade of elegantly restrained bags come splashes – quite literally – of stucco pastel colour:

these atmospheric swirls of paint were applied directly onto canvas by hand, a collaboration with German-born artist Christian Schoeler. Paul Helbers first worked with the artist for Esquire Magazine’s Singular Suit exhibit in London back in July 2009. they teamed up to create a suit constructed out of a single piece of heavy canvas in which Schoeler painted his signature ethereal landscape and portraiture.

with the suit looking fantastic already, the bags are very promising. they will be awesome. 

now for my top picks:

the bluegrey "tarpaulin" bags really interest me. particularly this simple Lanvinesque flat shopper:

and this rucksack-tote hybrid:

this revamped Sac Marin first appeared on the women’s Spring/Summer 2010 runway and im glad this model made the crossover to the boy’s side as it it a quite handsome and multi-functional piece. i also like the subtle screen printed geometric V logo based on Gaston Vuitton’s personal insignia.

but the one i will be praying to the LV gods for is this:

pardon the cliché, but i nearly died when i saw this. besides being a smart and intriguing soft briefcase and city bag, it’s practically a one-off mobile work of art. what makes it even more special to me is that this is the very first LV artist collaboration made specifically for men. i’ve been wishing they’d invite an artist to do something special for us boys too. we’ve been missing out for the longest time. yes there’s Takashi Murakamai’s Monogramouflage, but that is shared with the girls too and it isn’t runway. the Schoelers are, and i am most happy with the result.

i must admit, i’ve never heard of Christian Schoeler until last night, but i read that this 30 year old painter recreates contemporary fashion-magazine photographs into this otherworldly, raw and intimate portraits using watercolour and oils. his work reminds me so much of Marc Jacob’s favourite painter and friend Elizabeth Peyton.

i just hope this bag makes the cut and the price won’t push me to closing my perennially harassed bank account (if one can still call it that).

my Spring 2010 selection is pretty much locked-in. i just have to wait for its arrival in the next couple of months. now i can shift all my focus/obsession/frenzy for Fall 2010.

so help me God.

photos: GQ.com, Coutorture, UKTimesOnline, Colette, Esquire.
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sneak peek: LV Men’s Autumn-Winter 2010

my full review to follow very soon. im still delirious.

LV Men’s Spring 2010 News

here’s a few tidbits i have gathered about the upcoming Louis Vuitton Men’s Spring/Summer 2010 Collection.

the new face for the ad campaign is French-Canadian model Gabriel Aubry (a.k.a. Mr Halle Berry). here’s a couple of shots of him from LV S/S 2010 runway presentation back in June:

he was phtographed by Steven Meisel at the Spanish hot spot Ibiza. some say it almost could’ve been Jesus Luz if Madonna had her way. thankfully the luxury brand’s big wigs weren’t swayed.

Spring 2010 will be all about reintroducing their hugely successful Taïga leather collection. launched in 1993, Taïga was LV’s first line of bags, luggage and accessories designed specifically for men. next year, we will see three new colours named after the biospheres surrounding the Arctic region:

Polaire, as the name suggests would most likely be snow white:

Glacier i presume would be this colour:

and Boreal, named after the more densely forested southern portion of the Taiga, the coniferous northern region of the globe just below the Arctic. im a bit stumped with this one, but the closest hint of the actual colour i could come up with is a mottled pink granite. so it could possibly be a new lighter shade of their old acajou (burgundy) colour:

but it could also be a new version of their original epicea (evergreen) colour:

then again, i could be completely way off the mark with this one.

now don’t get too excited just yet guys. i haven’t heard any confirmation as to which of the bags shown above will actually be produced. but i could easily presume that this tote will most likely make the shortlist:

since this type of bag seems to be popular and they like sticking to what has worked already:

oh, and in case you’re curious about this backpack:

it will be available on special order and it will set you back upwards of $20,000. which is ok by me since im not too crazy about it nor its Taiga version, which is relatively cheaper at around $3000+.

while Steven Meisel remains responsible for LV’s glossy fashion adverts for now, and Annie Liebvotiz with their Core Values campaigns, they have enlisted the notoriously hip Frenchman André Saraiva to photograph a bunch of his equally cool friends for Louis Vuitton’s sunglasses campaign wearing these:

shot on location at the Modernist architectural wonder, The Standard Hotel in New York City. i can’t wait to see the results.

im all set for an exciting LV Spring 2010.

you can read my LV Mens S/S 2010 Runway review HERE

images: GQ.com, Louis Vuitton, Buckstyle.

Gladly: the Louis Vuitton Raindrop Besace

well the Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2010 show closed Paris fashion week with mixed reactions …as usual. over sized ombré canvas/denim rucksacks in pastels, loads of tassels, spiral telephone cords, foxtails… they were quite overwhelming to take all in. but im sure when these hit the shelves next year, many people would be converted ….as usual.

the one thing that stood out to me are these drawstring GLAD® lookalike bags:

Marc Jacobs is at it again – reinterpreting once mundane objects into high luxe versions. and im liking it enough to cross the line for. yes, i think would want one for myself.

they remind me of the time when the Street Shopper, those woven laundry/market bags in leather for Spring 2007, first came out to much derision and scathe:

im in the minority who thinks all these bags are witty and beautiful. i never learned to take things too literally and at face value. there’s always something inherently meaningful or profound in everything.

you can view the entire show HERE. but you must have a Facebook account, but who doesn’t?

UPDATE: the bags are called the Raindrop Besace in moka and emerald patent lambskin leather. here are the official photos from the LV website:

iLike. iWant. iLoVe!!!

images: style.com, karenkooper, harper’s baz

LV Men’s Spring/Summer 2010 review

Paul Helbers’ vision for the LV man next season is a man in motion. inspired by the bicycle messengers seen as "gentlemen butterflies" zipping through New York City, the collection has a palpable sportswear mood in a non too literal interpretation of rather disparate subjects as the LV menswear director’s become known for. cycling references such as pedal pushers, technical fibres and bike chains

are mingled with organic butterfly wing patterns and iridescent colours:

urbane butterflies may be the theme, but this cohesive collection of luxuriously revamped classics does not impart fragility but of resilience.

but enough of the clothes, i know we’re all here for the bags, shoes and accessories.

2010 is the Year of the Taïga.

since its birth in 1993, it was high time to revamp and reestablish this noble cross grained leather as Louis Vuiton’s premiere men’s collection of luggage and leather goods. next year we will see this collection emerge from its corporate background and hit the streets with the introduction of grey and white along with the return of the original epicea (evergreen) and acajou (burgundy) colours. but i am especially excited because they are finally making it in blue!

along with the usual parade of messengers, briefcases, totes and overnighters, there are also mini belt bags

enticing, but not too practical for my day-to-day schlepping needs, as i do pack a lot. which is why this large backpack is a strong contender:

im just not sure about the keyhole top handle.

my top picks:

but my #1 pick is this briefcase:

the dove grey hue is just perfect.

in this presentation, lanyards abound:

gotta get me one of these.

and the showstopping shoes:

the gold and sequins are terribly tempting. but im particularly interested with the iridescent green oxfords.

i think that’s enough stimulation for tonight. i am thoroughly excited for next year’s offerings, but for now i must focus on the upcoming Fall/Winter 2009 intake.

photos: men.style.com, showstudio.com